A. Brandt + Son

Victorian Swiss 18kt Diamond, Pearl + Guilloché Enamel Watch Pendant Necklace 21"



Guilloché is an engraving technique in which a very precise, intricate pattern is mechanically etched into an underlying material with very fine detail. Most commonly, the Guilloché surface was then enameled and the repetitive, intricate design would show through the colorful enamel to the surface.

A spectacular and feminine diamond watch pendant necklace from the Victorian (ca1894) era! Swiss in origin, this stunning piece is comprised of an 18kt yellow gold enameled watch pendant which hangs from the center of a decorative lorgnette style chain. The double-sided watch pendant is adorned with an incredible clam shell motif featuring an alternating pattern of diamond-lined and navy blue enameled rays. The motif rests on a blush enameled background, and the sparkling old Rose Cut stones catch the light beautifully with every turn. Beneath the translucent blush and blue enameling is an exquisite Guilloché pattern, which fans out in delicate rows, providing wonderful depth to the design. Vibrant gold lines detail the stunning image, and embellish the scalloped navy blue enameled border. On the reverse side is a matching border that surrounds a domed glass-covered blush watch face, featuring gold numbers and black arms. When opened, the gold encasement has several hinged compartments, revealing the watch face and working components inside. Several markings appear throughout the interior of the encasement, including a lovely inscription "Charlotte Frazer" "1894" "M. Lecoultre" "Geneve" written in a beautiful script. In addition, several hallmarks are found, including a flower, a crown, and two Swiss hallmarks of Helvetia (indicating its gold purity), beside a "0-750" gold purity mark and a patent number "7037." At the top of the watch is a textured gold handle, which also functions as the winder, and is stamped with two possible maker's marks and an additional hallmark of Helvetia. Both sides of the pendant are equally beautiful, allowing the wearer to choose which side to display as the front.

The pendant hangs from a 14kt yellow gold chain featuring a spring clasp attached to the winder. The lorgnette style necklace is decorated with an alternating pattern of blush colored enameled links and delicate natural pearls in between sections of chain. This gorgeous necklace compliments the pendant perfectly, and fastens in the back with a spring ring clasp, stamped "14K." It's a magnificent and versatile watch pendant necklace that would make a fantastic addition to any collection!

Measurements: The chain measures approximately 21" long with a 2 1/4" long lorgnette extension. The watch pendent measures about 1 1/2" tall, 1" in diameter and is 1/2" thick. The overall pennyweight of the pendant necklace is 14.1dwt (22.0 grams). 

Condition: The overall condition of the watch pendant and chain is excellent. Besides normal surface wear, there is no apparent damage to the gold setting, enamel or Guilloché work, or to the watch face and movement, which keeps time and remains in good working condition. Watches of this era should be cleaned and oiled periodically to keep them in good working order. The accent diamonds and pearl beads are all intact and securely set. Both spring ring clasps are secure and in good working condition.

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